Just to add my 2 cents....I've read some people couldn't drain the TC because they have the auxiliary pump for Stop and Go in the way. My C207 has it. It's really very simple/easy to remove.....
Disconnect the harness, remove three bolts, pull straight down. That's it. Follow the posted instructions from there.
Tip, if you're solo rotate the crank from underneath. Not from the top. You'll be able to see the TC plug no problems.
There's also another thing: if the entire AT requires from dry fill 9 ltrs in total, putting 10 ltrs (6+4) even if only for seconds, could damage the AT? Spaces seems really tights in transmissions, so the exceeding litre could do damages probably. I don't know, I think WIS is really bad written in this case unfortunately
I changed two times for two cars with the 7G to fill 10 liters in one time, no any issue occur. So I think that's okay to fill 10 liters in one time. I'll change my W221's ATF in a few days.
Thank you. This is exactly what I was fearing. Going too high in temp. Probably the best way is pumping 6 ltrs, starting the engine a few minutes, and then pump the other 4 ltrs before reaching the 45° Celsius. I'm asking myself if the official MB procedure (at dealers) is to replace only the 6 ltrs in the sump, or if they replace also TC oil, I mean as standard procedure. WIS seems not so clear, because it seems that you have to add the 4 ltrs only "after trans and converter have been replaced" (quoting). In fact I found some Febi service kits for oil change with only 6 ltrs. Anyway I'll do the complete job. Thank you :-)
I have the same concern with the 6 liters and the 4 liters, I always add 10 liters in one time since the WIS won't mention the cons with that. I studied many of the documents of WIS, if there will damage the vehicle, the WIS must warning that.
Hi everyone :-) I have a 722.996 trans on a w204 (7g plus). I don't understand honestly how WIS divides in two parts the filling of oil. It says to put initially 6 liters, start the engine, than turn it off, and then fill another 4 liters. But it says to fill the 4 ltrs when atf is already at 45°C, so in the meanwhile you finish filling, you go past the correct temperature. Are we sure that filling in one step the 10 ltrs is the same? Thank you very much for help
Adding 6l then starting it will allow the torque to fill. I'm not sure if it is possible to pump 10l of oil into a dry transmission without it overflowing out of a vent or elsewhere. The torque holds a lot of oil and will eat up a lot of the initial 6l fill. If your trans temp is still over 45c after adding the 4l second fill, you will have to wait until it cools below 45 before setting the level. I changed the oil two weeks ago in my CLS. Trans was very hot when I drained it and I had to place a box fan under the trans pan to speed up cooling as the trans oil jumped to over 45c minutes after pumping the fresh room temp fluid into the still warm transmission. Took about 30 minutes for to the trans to cool enough for setting the level. Hope that helps.
@David Lockhart My friend has experience with MB repairing for many years. We used to discuss the temperature of correcting the ATF capacity, he told me to exceed the 45°C is okay, not necessary for such accuracy.
Hi again Leigh. Did you have much trouble using the HDX 2 gallon pump sprayer to fill the ATF? I notice that you have an alternate fluid pump in your tool list that is much more expensive with pneumatic connection and pressure guage. Is this because the HDX was difficult to use? Would you use the HDX pump again?
Finally, the Xentry program you're using is now several years old I'm assuming. Since it can't be officially authorized or updated, is is still active? Is it worth the investment knowing that it may eventually cease to work? Has your software vendor a way to authorize it/update it? Thanks for your advice Leigh. What a great site you have!
Sorry for confused the pump link, I always use the HDX sprayer pump due to the price and works well. But that is not professional enough after all😁. Here is the HDX link: https://amzn.to/3pqPMsh
For the MB Star, the hardware can be used forever if the quality is good enough, mine software version is 03/2016, that’s means I can use it for any Mercedes was made before 03/2016. If I buy a car was made later than 03/2016, I have to upgrade the software that is sold by most MB Star seller. That’s most come with a HDD or a SSD for 100 to 200 bucks.
Hello Sr Leigh. What do you think of filling new ATF through the dipstick using a small funnel? No pump, quick disconnect, tubing and fill adapter needed with this method. Thoughts?
Yes, you can do it. But only working for 722.6 transmission, due to there is no dipstick on 722.9. Also, the 722.6 Automatic Transmission was initially engineered as a sealed for life transmission. There is no maintenance schedule of 722.6.
I just saw the video, and my concern is there still has some ATF at the bottom of TC bell. If you turn the TC bell from 4 o’clock position to 6 o’clock position, some ATF will drain out.
I see that. That TC drain plug position about 4 o'clock at the rectangle access hole, If you wanna drain the ATF completely, you should turn it to the 6 o'clock after you open it at 4 o'clock. Yes, would some mess. The upside is you don't need to remove the aux pump.
I never removed the pump, no reason to as there is an access plug just up the bellhousing on the right side of the vehicle. You have to fashion a rubber hose to place over the drain when you remove the screw otherwise it will make a mess.....You can see the rubber access plug, it is rectangular and appears just up the side of the bellhousing. Some fluid does run down the torque but it drains through an opening in front of the aux pump. A good shot of brake cleaner after a new screw is in place will flush out any remaining ATF. Otherwise, I guess you can take off the pump. Some torques don't have drain plugs, it is easier to check using the rectangular plug instead of pulling off the aux pump. The only other difference with the biturbo engine is the intercooler blocks the lower crank bolt. I used the alternator nut to carefully turn the engine to position the drain screw.
Yes it does have the start/stop pump. If you look at your post, step 5, the photo showing the torque screw. The rectangular rubber access plug is visible in your photo!
I changed my 2016 E400fluid. No need to remove the aux pump to drain the torque, there is a rubber plug (you can see it in your video too) in the 5 o'clock position on the bellhousing that gives access to the torque drain screw.
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老李，真是有研究精神我的標杆!!
Just to add my 2 cents....I've read some people couldn't drain the TC because they have the auxiliary pump for Stop and Go in the way. My C207 has it. It's really very simple/easy to remove.....
Disconnect the harness, remove three bolts, pull straight down. That's it. Follow the posted instructions from there.
Tip, if you're solo rotate the crank from underneath. Not from the top. You'll be able to see the TC plug no problems.
There's also another thing: if the entire AT requires from dry fill 9 ltrs in total, putting 10 ltrs (6+4) even if only for seconds, could damage the AT? Spaces seems really tights in transmissions, so the exceeding litre could do damages probably. I don't know, I think WIS is really bad written in this case unfortunately
Thank you. This is exactly what I was fearing. Going too high in temp. Probably the best way is pumping 6 ltrs, starting the engine a few minutes, and then pump the other 4 ltrs before reaching the 45° Celsius. I'm asking myself if the official MB procedure (at dealers) is to replace only the 6 ltrs in the sump, or if they replace also TC oil, I mean as standard procedure. WIS seems not so clear, because it seems that you have to add the 4 ltrs only "after trans and converter have been replaced" (quoting). In fact I found some Febi service kits for oil change with only 6 ltrs. Anyway I'll do the complete job. Thank you :-)
Hi everyone :-) I have a 722.996 trans on a w204 (7g plus). I don't understand honestly how WIS divides in two parts the filling of oil. It says to put initially 6 liters, start the engine, than turn it off, and then fill another 4 liters. But it says to fill the 4 ltrs when atf is already at 45°C, so in the meanwhile you finish filling, you go past the correct temperature. Are we sure that filling in one step the 10 ltrs is the same? Thank you very much for help
Hi again Leigh. Did you have much trouble using the HDX 2 gallon pump sprayer to fill the ATF? I notice that you have an alternate fluid pump in your tool list that is much more expensive with pneumatic connection and pressure guage. Is this because the HDX was difficult to use? Would you use the HDX pump again?
Finally, the Xentry program you're using is now several years old I'm assuming. Since it can't be officially authorized or updated, is is still active? Is it worth the investment knowing that it may eventually cease to work? Has your software vendor a way to authorize it/update it? Thanks for your advice Leigh. What a great site you have!
Hello Sr Leigh. What do you think of filling new ATF through the dipstick using a small funnel? No pump, quick disconnect, tubing and fill adapter needed with this method. Thoughts?
My pleasure.
Agreed, a very small amount that will drain completely when rotating the engine slightly.
I used a tube like this fella did in his video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQHqF9f4C_U&t=484s&ab_channel=pukpukky
The rubber plug has been removed.
I never removed the pump, no reason to as there is an access plug just up the bellhousing on the right side of the vehicle. You have to fashion a rubber hose to place over the drain when you remove the screw otherwise it will make a mess.....You can see the rubber access plug, it is rectangular and appears just up the side of the bellhousing. Some fluid does run down the torque but it drains through an opening in front of the aux pump. A good shot of brake cleaner after a new screw is in place will flush out any remaining ATF. Otherwise, I guess you can take off the pump. Some torques don't have drain plugs, it is easier to check using the rectangular plug instead of pulling off the aux pump. The only other difference with the biturbo engine is the intercooler blocks the lower crank bolt. I used the alternator nut to carefully turn the engine to position the drain screw.
Yes it does have the start/stop pump. If you look at your post, step 5, the photo showing the torque screw. The rectangular rubber access plug is visible in your photo!
Does your E400 has start/stop eco function? Do you have a photo of your drain plug?
I changed my 2016 E400fluid. No need to remove the aux pump to drain the torque, there is a rubber plug (you can see it in your video too) in the 5 o'clock position on the bellhousing that gives access to the torque drain screw.